Telly's Greenhouse : Plants

Planting your rose

In our northern climate it is recommended to plant the bud union 2-4 inches below the eventual soil level. Using this method will assist in winter protection. The bud union is the large knob at the base of the upright canes. Dig individual holes about 1 1/2 times the size of the potted plant. Cut the bottom of the container off with a blade knife, set the bottomless container in the hole. Slice the container on two opposite sides, add some of your amended soil, and simply pull the two remaining pieces of container out. Using this procedure rather than tipping your plant out of the container will reduce planting shock and keep your roots intact. (And save you from wrestling with thorns!) Work your remaining soil around the plant to eliminate any air pockets. It is helpful to create a well to aid in watering.

Sun

Roses love sun! The more sun your roses receive the better they will grow and flower. A rose plant should receive a minimum of six hours of sunlight every day. Morning sun is preferable.

Soil and Spacing

Roses like water, but don't like 'wet feet'. For maximum performance, you need to plant them in well-drained soil. We recommend amending your existing soil with Fafard 52, or peat and composted manure. Spacing depends on the type of rose plant you have selected; usually it will be 30-36 inches apart. Most climbers and large shrubs will require 4-6 ft. Air circulation is important to aid in preventing disease.

Watering

Watering is the lifeblood of healthy roses. Roses should receive the equivalent of 1 inch of rain a week. Newly planted roses should be watered daily for the first few weeks. A sprinkler system is not adequate for watering roses. Water the base of the plant with a soaker hose, or drip irrigation. Overhead watering should only be done early in the day so the foliage will have time to dry out before nightfall.

Fertilizing

Roses are heavy feeders, a minimum schedule is to feed three times a year. In late spring, mid-summer after the first blooms have appeared, and finally late summer, about six weeks before the first frost is expected. We recommend using organic Espoma Rose Tone or Hollytone. Your roses will enjoy an occasional water-soluble feeding in between granular feedings.

Mulching

A 2-inch layer of organic mulch can be very beneficial for your roses. It will keep weeds down and keep the soil cool and moist. Examples of good organic mulches are cedar or cypress chips or bark, pink bark, pine needles, cocoa shells. We recommend using Aged Pine Bark, which will also serve as an excellent soil amendment for your garden.

Pruning

The three major objectives in pruning are to shape the plant, produce better blooms, and get rid of old, dead wood so the plant has an easier time regenerating itself.

When to prune- Begin pruning your roses in spring while the plant is still dormant, before the leaves have begun to form. When you see the yellow forsythia shrub blooming, that's Mother Nature cue to begin rose care.

How to prune- Since a healthy rose can take some abuse, it will survive your pruning mistakes. You can prune your rose severely, moderately, or lightly, depending on the type of rose, and the type of blooms you would like to produce.

Shrubs are generally reduced by 1/3-1/2.

Moderate Pruning- (ex. Hybrid teas and Floribunda) You will leave about 5-12 canes 18-24 inches high. A much larger and better-shaped bush will develop. Moderate pruning is best suited for most gardens.

Knowing the type of rose you are growing is important, as different varieties prefer specific pruning methods.

Procedure for pruning

Step 1. Remove all dead wood down to the nearest healthy budeye. Dead wood looks brown and lifeless on the outside, and is light brown and dry on the inside.

Step 2. Remove any diseased weak, spindly canes down to healthy wood. Remove branches that are crossing one another. To check for diseased growth, cut the top of the cane and check the pith. It should be creamy white.

Step 4. Shape the remaining canes to get the shape and size you want. Make all cuts at a 45-degree angle just above an outside facing bud sprout.

Throughout the growing season you can continue to cut out weak, spindly shoots, and suckers. Deadhead old blooms when they have passed their peak, cutting 1/4 inch above a five leaflet facing the outside. Stop deadheading mid-September leaving the last wave of blooms on the plants.

Disease and Insect Control

Prevention is the best method of control. Avoid watering the foliage in the evening. Keep the center of the plant open to allow for good air circulation. If you choose to spray your roses with fungicides, begin spraying as soon as leaves appear repeat every 10-14 days. Apply the spray as a fine mist, to thoroughly wet the foliage, particularly the underside of leaves. Water your roses well 24 hours before applying fungicides. Read label directions carefully before use; do not exceed the recommended dosage.

Winter Protection

Healthy roses are more likely to survive our winter conditions. Planting the bud union below the soil is very important. Tender roses will require additional winter protection. The most popular method of winter protection is to hill soil or other organic material around the base of the plant 8-12 inches high, usually around November 30th.

You may cut your plants to 4ft at this time to prevent wind rock. Tender climbers may benefit from a burlap cover to prevent wind damage. Hardy shrubs and own root roses will survive winters without added protection. The most efficient winter protection is a thick blanket of snow.